11/9/2023 0 Comments Piezo pickup saddleNo problems and no corrosion since replacing the bridge. I actually had to do it when we had an outside gig at dusk, and dew settled in. If I used a hand held hair dryer, I could coax the piezo back to operation by drying out the humidity from it, but it was a big hassle to do & rather embarassing to boot in the middle of a job. The piezo lead is soldered to the hot signal pad, and nothing to the ground pad. One thing I noticed while replacing the bridge was that there are 2 solder pads per piezo element on the bridge pc board - one for hot and on for ground. ![]() ![]() When my 59 bridge corroded, that ground contact became less conductive - resistance would build up, and the signal would fade away to nothing when it was very humid. The ground return to complete the circuit is achieved with the metal case of the piezo being in contact with the grounded bridge. My opinion is that the piezo design has a single wire lead - the "hot" or signal lead is soldered to the little printed circuit (pc) board under the bridge. My 69S bought in October 2012 has never had the issue. They sent me a replacement bridge, and it has not corroded or had a loss of signal on it's piezos, since then. The 59 bridge had a corrosion issue that L6 did a slight redesign and change of hardware vendor to the Korean factory - this was one of their early QC problems they had to deal with. On my JTV-59 I had my A-string piezo go silent when I was playing in humid conditions in it's first year 2011 - when I would bring it inside to air conditioned and reduced humidity, it would magically work fine. On my first Variax 300, I had a problem with my B-string piezo going dead on hot humid outdoor gigs. Seems odd that it seems to occur mostly on the E string. Possible piezo damage? Wear and tear due to Whammy bar usage? It seems to be a relatively common occurance. ![]() Also, can someone explain to me just what's going on physically that creates this phenomenon? Is it a bad connection?.
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